Creating Mock Scrapes

Creating Mock Scrapes by Bryan “CornFed” Anderson

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Mock Scrapes- There are certainly many “tricks” that can put a hunter on a big buck but fewer tactics have shown as consistent results for me as mock scrapes. In fact, of the many so called short cuts to big bucks, I’ve found most turn out to be only extra miles. I started experimenting with mock scrapes several years ago and now I’ve developed a plan that seems to get results from mature animals. It is not overly difficult to program immature deer to visit scrapes simply because of the curiosity of the animal. Young deer will often investigate many strange scents in their area. However, the same can not be said of the more experienced, veteran bucks that have been around for a few seasons. These animals require a very cautious approach that will not clue them in to a hunters “game”. A successful scent strategy involves as much scent control as it does actual deer scent.

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Scent Control Is The First Step In Making Mock Scrapes.

Generally, I’m very cautious with my human scent. I practice careful scent control before heading anywhere near a known scrapping area that may attract a mature animal. I feel that many people have the right idea and good scent reducing clothing BUT they make the mistake of wearing this gear in their vehicles on the way to the hunt area…… BIG mistake. Do NOT put on your “scent free” clothing UNTIL you’ve reached the hunt area. Once at the “hunt” area I grab my X-Large rubber lined duffel (36″x18″ Madd Dog gear bag) that I store my clothes in and I step well away from the truck. I like to wear a Scent-Loc liner suit over the T-shirt and jeans I’ve worn out there. I also like to add another layer of camo carbon over the liner suit. Don’t forget the Scent-Loc gloves and facemask!!! I’m always surprised by the number of folks that wear the coat/pants/bibs but forget this extremely critical aspect of the hands and head, possibly your biggest scenting concerns. After this carbon barrier is on I then add knee high rubber boots, I prefer the new LaCrosse Alpha Burly Sports. I then spray myself from head to toe with Carbon Blast. This scent reducing system WILL improve you hunting and the number of times you can access an area without tipping of the resident deer. I can’t tell you the number of times that I’ve seen mature deer cross my fresh entry and exit trails and NOT be alarmed. Bottom line, the more serious you take this step, the more successful you’ll become.

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Where To Place Your Mock Scrapes.

Obviously you must put some thought into the mock scrapes placement. A random scrape on a field edge isn’t going to do it. The scrape must be located in an area that has the potential to attract a mature animal. I prefer to take all funnel effects and topography into account. Maps and extensive post-season scouting can go a long ways in putting you in the right spot. I’ve found good areas to be on or near preferred creek crossings, timbered points that reach out into fields, wooded fence lines between standing cornfields, benches located along hardwood ridges, old logging roads, etc. We’ve had particularly good luck by mowing/cutting our own trails and preparing scrapes near “perfect” trees that will allow us to hunt the locations under the conditions that WE want. Anything you can do to stack the odds in your favor as opposed to the incredible senses of a mature deer is going to make a difference. The importance of the making of your own trails is that, as mentioned, you can route these trails past the trees that YOU want to hunt. You can then take ideal stand access and wind direction into account and really come up with some excellent set-ups.

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When To Begin Creating Mock Scrapes

Another thing I don’t think a lot of folks realize is that one of the best times for mock scrape creating and hunting is early. In fact, I’ve found that many hunters don’t even consider “scrape hunting” as a tactic until way latter in the season. I’ve consistently seen results much earlier in the season then most hunters assume. I’ve found that mock scrapes can be made even before the bucks loose their velvet. Obviously at this time the mock scrape isn’t much more than a licking branch but it can be very effective. As the season wears on and bucks loose their velvet some become very aggressive at these sites while others still continue to utilize the scrapes but never really get aggressive. Our bow season here in IL doesn’t open until Oct. 1 so velvet movement doesn’t concern me as much, but it is still nice to get a mature animal “programmed”. As I’ve mentioned, many hunters don’t begin to think about scrape hunting until late October and early November but it’s been my experience that most of the prime scrape hunting has passed by then. I’ve seen an impressive number of big bucks utilizing mock scrapes during the first 2 weeks of our archery season to doubt the effectiveness of this pattern. It is indeed a pattern that shouldn’t be ignored. The most critical factor in successfully bowkilling one of these animals relies more on weather (heat or the absence of) then anything else. As most hunters already know, big buck movement is suppressed when the temps are high. This is unfortunately the case with many early season hunts. That’s why earlier I suggested trying to establish mock scrapes near creek crossing and other low lying areas. In these areas the water may give you a chance of getting that mature buck to show himself during legal shooting hours.

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Creating Making Mock Scrapes Is Easy If You Follow These Steps.

Now for the actual process of making the mock scrapes. You already have your “ideal” spot selected and are ready to go in and actually create the scrape. First, select your stand set-up. It doesn’t matter if your stand is within shooting range of the scrape because often times the buck will approach from the downwind side unless you have really limited his possible entry route to the area (manmade funnels or natural). If you’ve done this then by all means set right up over the scrape. If not, then count on killing the buck 50 to 75 yards downwind from the mock. You should be wearing all of your scent free clothing including gloves and facemask at this point. You must decide on what scent or scents you want to use in your mock. I’ve experimented with numerous different kinds and by far the most effective I’ve ever used was manufactured by James Valley Scents. In particular, the JVS Lethal Weapon and Wall Hanger Gels have been incredible. I prefer the Gels because they’ll last longer. Scrape the area with your scent free boot until it is clean of debris. This area should not be large, less than 24 inches across. This will certainly get the deer’s attention. Make sure that there is a licking branch directly over the scrape. I also prefer that the branch not be higher then 5 feet. I’ll apply one variety of JVS Gel to the licking branch and another to the pawed up area beneath. All you need to do at this point is monitor the area. Wait at least a week before penetrating the area again to check on your creation. But remember; ALWAYS utilize total scent control when entering the area. The only times I didn’t have to be so careful with scent is in a few select field edge (standing corn) scrapes that I could access with my ATV. I would simply drive along the edge like a farmer checking fence. I would stop with the quad still running and apply sent right there from the seat of my ATV. Once treated I would simply drive off.

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How To Create Mock Scrapes- Conclusion

Everyone has their own little “secrets” that helps them get on deer, but these tactics really have helped me get shot ops on P&Y class bucks. Bucks that I know I would have otherwise not have tagged had they not been so willing to show off their dominance. Try some of these mock scrape tips and tactics and see if they don’t help you take that wall hanger this season.

Understanding Deer Scents and Lures

by James Valley Scents

WHY

Communication among deer and other animals evolves around the olfactory messages contained in their internal glands and urines. These messages are picked up and translated by the smell receptors in the brains of other animals.

Animals of a species are interested in the scents/smell of another animal of the same species. “Scent Messages” are translated through their glandular secretions and urine. Animal glands and urine are great attractants for members of the same or different species. They trigger various reactions in the animal. Their scent can make them sexually responsive, aggressive, curious, or angry. Gland/urine scents can also replace fear and suspicion and give the animal a sense of security and confidence. It’s the natural animal odor that makes these glandular secretions and urine universal attractants.

QUALITY

Quality urine contains water, amine acids, solids, and over 100 separate chemical compounds. There is a greater amount of amine acids and solids in adult animals of a species. Quality urine can only be collected from mature, adult animals; preferably mature animals that have gone through a mating period. Also, a greater concentration of certain chemical compounds are present during the mating period, thus changing the odor of the urine completely in some animals.

Beware of urines that are low-odor or “flat”. This is an indication of “watered” or “cut” urine. Also, urines that contain antifreeze are urines that are diluted at least 25%. Temperature determines the movement of odor molecules. The addition of antifreeze will not change this, only weaken the urine and make it easy to pour.

Shy away from urines that have a chemical smell to them.

AMMONIA

Each year I get customers who write or call me and complain about their favorite hunting lure turning into ammonia.

Ammonia is an alkali gas that develops from:

1. Bacterial growth;
2. Heat;
3. Age;
4. Chemical breakdown.

Urine is a great breeding ground for bacteria. The rate of bacterial growth in urine is determined by temperature. High temps result in quicker bacteria development if the urine is not preserved. As urine “ages” it will also develop an ammonia smell. Ammonia will also become more noticeable as the urine’s chemical compounds start to break down (if not preserved).

YOU MUST PRESERVE URINE OR IT WILL SPOIL. PLEASE STAY AWAY FROM UNPRESERVED, UNSTABLE URINE LURES.

Urine that doesn‘t build a moderate (small to medium) ammonia odor is often diluted with water. This is a practice of some manufacturers who prefer to increase profits by sacrificing quality.

Remember:

THE STRONGER AND MORE CONCENTRATED THE URINE, THE STRONGER THE AMMONIA.

A urine scent with an ammonia odor isn’t ruined if it’s a moderate amount. INTENSITY of ammonia should be the factor in determining if you trust using a particular scent/lure. A small amount of ammonia odor present will not adversely affect results. Throw away a urine lure that has a very strong, overpowering ammonia odor.

Weak urine that never develops a moderate ammonia odor is usually “cut” with water. (To make it go farther and increase profits to the manufacturer.) Be careful of this fact. A good thing about ammonia is the fact that it is a volatile gas and it evaporates when exposed to the air. It is important to store urines properly and to know how to get rid of ammonia problems once you have them.

The best place to store your urine lures is in your refrigerator in a zip lock bag.

They will last for many years if kept refrigerated. There is not a better place to store your urine type lures. If this isn’t possible, keep them in a cool, dark place. Never store urine products in direct sunlight or keep them on the dash of your vehicle as they will be ruined in a few hours. If your urine lure or scent has developed an undesirable amount of ammonia odor, you should take the lid off and “bleed off” the ammonia for a few hours. Most of the ammonia should dissipate in 24 hours. Then add 1/8 tsp. table salt to each fluid ounce of urine and shake well. If you have doubts about your hunting scents and lures, I advise purchasing quality, well-handled scents from a respected, quality-minded manufacturer. If this procedure is followed, you will be able to get years of use out of your animal urine scents.

Remember to:

1. Be careful;
2. Stay clean;
3. Keep cool when using animal scents/lures.

Lure manufacturing is an art that takes many years of testing and experimentation in order to formulate lures that hold attention and attract. The best lures are “fixed” so ALL the ingredients blend and permeate the area when exposed to air.

Great Lures should be able to trigger more than one response in an animal in order to maximize effectiveness and your satisfaction. The more reactions a lure causes an animal to have and the more intense that response is, the better the lure is and the more opportunities you are going to have.

1) Professional trappers know quality scents. I don’t know of any who buy their lures and scents at Wal-Mart. I’ll suggest you might shy away from mass produced, poor quality, discount-chain-sold buck scents, also.

2) Estrous scents will attract bucks prior to the peak of the rut. Bucks are interested and will respond during the pre-rut – The peak of the pre-rut is the best time to use deer attractants.

3) I feel straight doe deer urine (non-estrous) is the poorest deer scent you can use to attract bucks. I have found it gives a “so what” response in the many years of research that I have done. Regular, non-estrous doe urine is what most “heat” urine type buck lures sold today are. No wonder there is so much confusion and mixed results with hunting with scents. Straight doe urine that is labeled “heat” urine will not arouse sexual urges. False advertising and gimmicks have damaged the credibility of many scent manufacturers.

It’s October

By Roger Raglin

It’s October!  Enough said.  By the time you read this if you haven’t yet been bow hunting from your favorite tree stand it’s probably because of one of two things.  Either the season hasn’t opened up yet or you broke your leg!

I have only one main prayer that I speak daily.  “God watch over my children today.  God please don’t ever let me die during the month of October. Amen.”  I have to admit that to this day I still get a little nervous that last week in September.

In all the excitement that comes with the opening of bow seasons, don’t overlook something that just might help you fill that deer tag the very first week.  Don’t rule out mid-day movement of that buck you are hunting.  He may not cruise far, but it isn’t uncommon for all deer to at least get up and stretch a bit through the course of any given day.  Somewhere between the hours of 11 and 1 P.M. is an ideal time to just simply stay put in the woods for a while.  Just plan on eating a late lunch.  That’s what I do.

During the first week of the season last year, I was bow hunting with an old friend of mine Ron Thompson.  Early that morning we glassed  up a huge buck that was crossing the prairie.  The buck was about 500 yards away but we could see him clearly and followed his travel.  Finally the buck disappeared from sight as he entered a brushy thicket near the top of a steep canyon.  Ron stayed behind to glass to make sure the buck didn’t blow out the other side or cross through the bottom of the canyon.  I made a wide circle entering the thicket not far from where we last saw the big Kansas monster.

I spent several hours working very slowly downward along the steep slopes.  I stopped frequently to glass and check for sign.  Three fourths of the way down the hill I decided to se up and just wait.  Shortly after 11 A.M. here he came.  The buck was extremely relaxed as he casually fed on newly fallen acorns.  You could tell he wasn’t going far and he sure wasn’t in any hurry to get there.  But he did manage to cover about 75 yards or so over the next few minutes.

Then suddenly the buck heard a soft thump sound.  He felt a quick sting.  Seven minutes later somebody in the woods screamed, “Jimney Xmas!”

The buck grossed a little over 190 Boone and Crockett points.  As usual I ate a late lunch that day too.

Rifle-Caliber Combination for Whitetail Deer
Which one works the best for you?

I get numerous questions every year before deer season asking about the best rifle-caliber combination for whitetails. Which rifle is the best? What caliber should I use? What type of rifle is the most accurate?

Well, that’s an easy one to answer — all of them. I’ve seen deer taken with just about every rifle-caliber combination imaginable, and I personally have used most of them to put meat in the freezer.

I shot my first deer with a Thompson-Center .50 caliber muzzleloader. Next I moved to a Marlin 336CS lever-action in .35 Remington. Later I went all out and bought a Remington Model 700 BDL in .30-06. I upgraded from there for a sleek Ruger 77 MKII in 7mm Remington Magnum.

I have also used a Winchester Model 94 Wrangler lever-action in .30-.30; a Rossi 92SRC .357 magnum lever-action; a Savage Model 110 bolt-action in .30-06; an SKS semi-automatic in 7.62×39mm; a Remington Rolling Block in .444 Marlin; an EMF Sharps in .45/70; and an Ithaca Model 37 pump-action shotgun in 20 gauge.

I have used these rifle-caliber combinations to take deer at ranges as little as 15 yards out to well over 200, each one has been the appropriate weapon-caliber of choice as long as I used it within the limitations it was designed for.

So which one should you use to hunt North America’s favorite big game animal? To answer this you must look at several factors to include you budget and the terrain you will be hunting.

You can get a new lever-action for $225 to $500. These include the Marlin, Rossi, Savage and Winchesters in .30-30, .35 Remington, .308, .30-06, .44 magnum, .444 Marlin and .45/70.

If heading to the woods with a cowboy gun isn’t your thing, you could go for a bolt-action for $275 to $600. Here, the selection is larger to include Remington, Savage, Marlin, Winchester, Ruger, Howa, Browning and Weatherby in just about every caliber imaginable.

If you decide you need quick follow-up shots, you can purchase a semi-automatic sporting rifle for $400 to $700. Browning, Marlin, Remington and Ruger are some of the companies known for good-quality automatics. Like bolt-actions, these are also available in many calibers.

I didn’t mention single-shots like the rolling and falling block rifles, but these are also available for $500 to $2,500. EMF imports Italian reproduction Sharps; Navy Arms imports and Dixie Gun Works import Sharps and Rolling Blocks. These are fine quality weapons in .45/70 caliber.

Browning is also in the competition with two excellent modernized breechloaders — a low- and a high-wall model. Unlike the others, these can be had in many calibers. Of course there is the infamous Ruger No. 1, which is still being produced in everything from varmint to elephant calibers.

As you can read, there are many rifles available to fit every budget, but that’s only half of the equation. The other side of buying a new deer rifle is contingent upon the terrain you will hunt.

It doesn’t do any good to use a .30-30 if your shots are in the 200+ plus range; just as using a 7mm Rem. Mag. for 50 yard shots is the wrong choice (.30-30 can reach it, but the energy remaining is considered minimal at this range — 7 mm will normally punch right through at 50 yards and the deer will keep moving many times).

Let’s say you hunt river bottoms, thick with hardwoods. Although great calibers, a .30-06 or 7mm will easily deflect off the smallest twig, causing you to miss the target. And you sure don’t want a bullet traveling at over 2,200 fps going anywhere but the intended target.

For this scenario, a brush-buster would be the answer. These include the .35 Remingtons, .444 Marlins and the old workhorse .45/70. Each will punch through vegetation and drop a whitetail in its tracks, versus ricocheting into oblivion.

On the other hand, let’s say you’re to hunt open woods or fields with 200 yard shots. Here the brush-busters can work, but I wouldn’t use them for anything over 150. In this case, any of the .243, .270, .30-06, and 7mm’s are appropriate. In fact, this is where they work best and most will shoot farther than we can actually hit anything.

But what if you don’t know what type of terrain you’ll hunt, or it will be a combination, or you only have enough money for one deer rifle? Well, buy a lever-action in .30-30 or a bolt-action in .30-06.

The trusty .30-30 has probably taken more game animals than any other caliber and will do the job if you can. When noted that it comes in a fast action lever gun, it makes for instant follow-up shots.

I remember taking a friend deer hunting two years ago. It was his first time, but since he had his grandpa’s Winchester 94, I said come along. Well, I had to start calling him “The Rifleman.” Every time we went hunting, I would hear five or six shots sounding like an automatic. By the end of the season, this “cherry” had taken four whitetails. He was as fast as Chuck Connors with that repeater.

If you want a little more bullet, then go for a .30-06 which has been around since the turn of the century. This flat shooting, tack-driver can effectively take an animal out to 400 yards and was a favorite of President Teddy Roosevelt.

If you’re wondering why I recommend these two calibers, it’s simple. You can walk into any store in America and buy these cartridges. I don’t care where you are, they will have .30-30s and .30-06s.

The last item to quickly talk about is accuracy. Everyone seems concerned, and many hunters deliberate to the point of going crazy over this. Well, forget it. Any new rifle you buy today will be accurate straight out of the box. You might not be — but it will.

Don’t worry about anything. Just pick a good rifle in an acceptable deer caliber legal in your state, put a scope on it if you desire, sight it in at 100 yards and drive on. That’s it, that’s all you need. Nothing more, nothing less in most cases.

Most deer a killed within 100 yards and if you bore sight dead-on at 100 you’ll knock him down every time. If you live out west, or hunt long open fields all the time, sight in at 200 and you’ll hit the mark.

Regardless of the rifle-combination you use for whitetails, if you are like most, it won’t make any difference because you won’t practice with it. Oh many hunters spend countless hours at the range refining their trade, but most don’t. They pickup the rifle a week before opening day, head to the range and shoot three rounds. And they wonder why they didn’t hit that big buck when he stepped out into the open.

Make sure you practice — practice — practice until you can hit a target the size of a coke-can lid out to 100 yards every time. If you can accomplish this, that buck won’t get away and you’ll have meat for the rest of the year.

Your persistence has paid off; your deer is down, now what do you do? What you do now will determine the quality of your bucks meat at the table. Proper care of your deer is very important in making sure that its taste good when it is served at the table. This article is to tell new hunters how to field dress, skin and prepare a deer for butchering. Experienced hunters might also learn something new.

False Hoods

One of the most persistent beliefs among hunters is that you must bleed your deer by cutting the deer’s throat as soon as you get to it. This is suppose to bleed the deer off blood and make the meat taste better. Never cut a deer’s throat. This has no positive effects. Once a deer is dead the heart no longer pumps blood. If the blood is not circulating then cutting the throat will not bleed any blood from the deer. It can however mess up a cape (the deer’s hide around the head, neck and shoulders) if you decide to mount the deer. It opens the deer’s up to dirt in an area that would otherwise have been protected from dirt and bacteria. It is in a word “USELESS”.

If you want to bleed your deer you will first need to hang the deer (best done head down) and then make a cut at the lowest point so that the blood can gravity feed out of the deer. I don’t do this myself. I get the blood out of the deer after the deer is home via soaking the meat in an icechest for a few days. This has the added benefit of ageing the meat a bit before it is frozen.

Another fallacy is that you must cut off the tarsal glands of the deer or the meat in that area will be ruined. This is nonsense. It didn’t taint the meat while the deer was living and it will not taint it after the deer is dead. You don’t want to touch the tarsal gland and then touch the meat however. If the animal is not yet dead, simply shoot the animal again. It is very dangerous to approach a buck that is wounded from the front and down right stupid to try to cut its throat with a knife.

FIELD DRESSING A sharp knife is better than a dull knife when it comes to field dressing a buck. A sharp knife will actually reduce bad (unneeded) cuts and will make the entire procedure easier. Take your time when dressing a buck, mistakes due to haste will often require you to make a trip to the hospital to get stitches.

Prop the animal on its back and begin field dressing by making a cut from just above the genitals up to the rib cage. You now have to make a choice. Some people cut through a number of the ribs in the rib cage to make it easier to reach up into the deer’s chest. I find this unnecessary but its up to you. If you do plan to cut through some of the ribs you should do it of center to avoid the sternum. When you make this cut from just above the genital to the sternum take care not to cut too deep. You only want to cut through the hide and through the animals stomach muscle. If you go to deep you will puncture the deer’s intestines and you will have to deal with the smell.

NOTE: If you plan on having the deer mounted don’t cut any further up the belly than the sternum to save the cape.

Now turn the deer on its side and allow the guts to fall out. They will require help from you by cutting away the fat that will hold the intestines in. This is usually at the top of the cavity in the area near the spine. Care must be taken to not puncture or break the deer’s bladder. The bladder will be in the area where the cavity narrows down at the hips. I leave this part of the deer’s intestines intact but many or most do not. If you plan on removing all of this then you must have a very sharp knife and must ream the deer out from the back. Cutting around the anus and tying it off with string. Then cutting either forwards or backwards from the abdominal cavity to remove this entire area. Easier said than done. Care must be take not to puncture anything here this is where the deer droppings and urine are located. The deer’s abdominal cavity is separated from the chest cavity by the diaphragm. This separates the lung and heart from the stomach and intestines. This must be cut out to remove all of the intestines.

This is how it usually works for me, with the guts half in and half out I cut the diaphragm away from the deer’s chest cavity, I then reach as far up into the deer’s chest as possible and grab the deer esophagus. With the other hand I carefully slide the knife into the deer’s chest and work my knife up into the chest to cut the esophagus just above my other hand. After it is cut I simply pull the heart and lungs out and with it comes the rest of the intestines.
Wash up.
Drag the deer out.
Load in truck.
Go home or to camp for skinning.

SKINNING

When skinning a deer it can either be hung head up or head down. I have always hung mine head up. Begin by making a circular cut around the deer’s neck. Connect this cut with the cut made in the stomach during field dressing. Remove the hide by grasping the skin and pulling down hard with both hands. Use your knife carefully when freeing the hide from the carcass to avoid cutting the skin. If the flesh begins to pull off with the skin, stop pulling and try again after cutting the flesh back with the knife.

NOTE: If the cape is to be saved, you can cut the middle and rear portion of the hide free by starting skinning just behind the shoulder and working down from there.

When you have the hide down around the shoulders you will have to cut off the front legs with a hacksaw just above what you would think is the deer’s knees. Then on the inside of the deer’s legs cut toward the chest and connect this cut with the one made up through the chest and abdomen during gutting. After you work the hide free around the front legs with a knife. You can continue to work the hide down the deer’s back towards its feet and tail.

Once you get the hide down around the deer’s tail, simply cut the tail off with a knife. Let me say this again. When you are pulling and cutting the hide from the deer and you can see that the hide is now coming off of the tail, you can now simply cut the tail free. This cut you understand is not through hide but only through the tailbone itself because you have pulled the hide down far enough so that it exposes the tailbone under the hide. That’s a long explanation for something simple just so you will not get confused. Continue until you get the hide down around the deer’s tarsal glands (the dark patches on the inside of the hind legs) then take a saw and cut through the leg just above the tarsal gland.

By now you are tired from unpacking, driving, getting up early and dragging the deer out of the woods, skinning and gutting. But you are not finished yet. You must still store the meat for butchering. I will not go into great detail at least not today but this is how I do it. I first cut out the backstrap and tenderloins out and place in an ice chest. Then I cut the front legs free (no bones to cut) and place them in an ice chest. Then I cut the back hindquarters free with a knife. You can works a hindquarter free with just a knife if you work your way to the ball and socket joint that holds the hindquarters to the hips. Just work the point into this joint and work around the ball.

Once both tendons are cut the hindquarter will be free. Place any other meat such as ribs and neck into the icechest. Now place a bunch of ice in the icechest with the meat. I am now totally exhausted from all the work. So I am in no mood to begin butchering the deer. So I usually wait a couple of days before I begin butchering.

Each day you need to drain the water and add new ice. I usually will do a little butchering each day until I am finished, this usually takes me 5 to 7 days. I could do it all in one day if I wanted to but cutting up one hindquarter is easy but butchering an entire deer is work so I spread it out.

Do you make Mineral Licks for your deer herd? You should if you want to see bigger bucks, like this Monster who has been digging into mineral lick for the last two years.

The supplements that the deer need are calcium and phosphate, with vitamins A, D, and E.

This mixture will give the deer the nutrients they need during the antler growing season.

The only problem is they don’t like it and they won’t eat it, so you have to add other ingredients to the mixture to get the deer to consume it.

There are many good mixes out on the market; they all have basically the same stuff in them.

I like to find a low spot near a good deer travel route and work up the soil, then mix the supplement with the soil. After it’s mixed pour a bucket of water over it. This saturates the mixture.

The deer will eat both the mix and the soil, after a few weeks the deer will have a hole dug trying to get every bit.

You should start one in April, redo it in July, and then again in October. If you want bigger, healthier deer make a Mineral Lick.